It’s tough to tell from the picture, but SSDutch now has a solidly-attached body.  The mid-60’s era CJ6’s have 13 body mounts total, and I had to re-work over half of them.

Beginning Weirdness
I spent some quality time under the Jeep, assessing the body mount project.  The rear four that mount to the top of the crossmember all have to be rebuilt - that looks pretty straightforward if I use some bent flat stock.

This picture presents a mystery to me.  This is looking towards the front of the Jeep.  The innermost crossmember (that has the muffler attached) has a rubber strip between it and the body.

In the gap between it and the next crossmember, is a rubber strip attached to the bottom of the body, with nothing around.

The next crossmember back has no rubber between it and the body, save for the two bolts in the corners where the original drawbar attached.

Another pic of the exposed rubber strip:

This mount is right under the front seats where the floor level raises from front to rear.  The rubber mount material looks original, but the way the mount bolt gets sandwiched in there looks odd:

Some hat channel repair needed here:

Products Used

For body mounts there is no kit specific to the CJ6.  I used the Prothane kit for a ‘72-‘75 CJ5 as they had a couple more body mounts than the earlier CJ5.

For bolts, I bought the Totally Stainless kit for early CJ’s but still ended up buying most of the bolts.

Rear Crossmember Mounts

The passenger side outer had trouble due to the rear crossmember having a couple inches off the end missing, so I welded in some 1.5” angle iron to form a base for the body mount.

Here’s the driver’s side inner.  I used 2” square tubing, bent in a bit at the top which allowed me to weld it to the original body mount flanges:

Passenger side inner done the same way:

Rear Cargo Area Mounts

The next two mounts, moving towards the front of the Jeep, are where the drawbar supports terminate into the frame (my supports are cut out in preparation for the rear gas tank installation.

Near as I can tell, the original setup had a bolt captured into the floor support channel, so the head didn’t protrude into the rear cargo area.  Of course this bolt had rusted, so I had to drill down from the top and run a bolt all the way through.

Floor Support Channel Mounts

No pics of these, as they were straightforward bolt replacement and body puck insertion. 

Floor Riser Area

I had to rebuild these strange (apparently CJ6-only) mounts right by where the floor level goes up from front to back.

Strange as it seemed to have the bolt get sandwiched between the frame and mount, I did try to salvage and re-use them.  The bolts were rusted solid, however.  I was able to get my angle grinder in and cut off the bolts above and below the bracket, but was unable to get the remains of the bolt out of the bracket hole.  There just wasn’t any room to pry or hit anything to drive out the bolt shaft.

I considered just drilling a hole vertically up through the frame and sitting a body puck right on the frame itself, but I’m just not that big on putting more holes in the frame.

So I cut off the brackets by grinding off the rivets, and built these as a replacement:

They’re just 2” angle iron, boxed with 1” strap at either end.  They mount using the same holes as the original mounts.

Since the mounts are now outboard of the frame, I wanted to distribute the force of the mount.  I cut some 6” chunks of the 1” strap and made “rectangular washers” to fit into the body flange:

Passenger Side Toolbox Mount
This one was also straightforward bolt replacement and puck insertion.

Passenger Side Front / Hat Channel Repair

These are a typical rust spot for old Jeeps as the factory used oak inserts which retain water and cause rust.

The fix, in this case, is some 1” x 2” channel steel which slides right over the original hat channel.  I notched the channel so that it would run across the other hat channel, which provides a nice base for the body mount and a couple places to get a weld.

And yeah, it’s a tough place to weld—I’m not that great at it as it is, and add in the overhead laying on your back position and the booger welds you see here are the best I can do.  Doesn’t have to be pretty as long as it holds!

Driver Side Front / Hat Channel Repair

Same approach as the passenger side.

Before:

After:

Grill Mount
Finally at the front of the Jeep - nothing to rebuild with this one either.