No grommets to scratch the paint, no snaps to pull out, and hopefully this setup will allow enough play in the vinyl to accommodate how it grows and shrinks with different temperatures.

This trailer mod comes courtesy of the Bantam Trailer List, with a great blueprint posted in the Files section (membership required).

The supports are 1/2” schedule 40 PVC pipe with some 90 and 45 degree elbows.  I didn’t even glue things together - keeping the unglued lets me shift a bow assembly back and forth by pushing one side at a time.

Here’s the main benefit - using a tarp over the trailer.  This is just a temporary 6x8 plastic tarp.  I plan to have a black vinyl one custom made soon.

This setup worked great at the campground - the tarp kept all the junk from the trees from getting into the trailer and also provided some reasonably secure storage for the cooler, etc.

While driving, these get pushed to the front of the trailer, and the tent/chuckbox gets packed in the rear.  The only challenge with this arrangement is if you need to get into the drawers before setting up camp or after breaking camp.

Note that I had to buy both of these in the 3-drawer versions and remove one drawer.  Cost was about $35.

The main design goals with this bike rack were to:

1. Haul 4 bikes
2. Keep the trailer open for camping gear, etc.
3. Use the bike rack I have
4. Keep the tailgate operational
5. Be able to use a standard flat tarp over the trailer contents for security and dryness.

The bike rack started as a car-top version, and for awhile I had it narrowed to fit inside the trailer.  Once the bikes were in, though, the trailer was full so this approach lifts them up 6” over the trailer body. 

I ended up splitting the rack into two pieces, which allows 14” of clear space in the middle (I’m hoping to also carry a kayak or PortaBote in the future).  I can also pull off one side to just haul 2 bikes and something else.

The support for the rack is all 1.5” square tubing except for the feet which are 2” angle iron bolted through both the sides and bottom of the trailer frame. 

Some pics of the build:

First Use:
All setup to camp - for our first outing we kept it simple and went to the state park 5 miles from our house.

Overall I was happy with how the trailer handled.  I do plan to use a shorter drawbar so there’s a bit more weight on the hitch, and I also plan to add shocks to the trailer to minimize the amount of bounce and sway.  I don’t think the bikes add much, but it’s just more noticeable due to their position.

When I started the restoration of this trailer, there wasn’t a whole lot of knowledge about them on the internet.  The best overall guide was, and still is the:
Jeep Trailer Spotter’s Guide hosted by Derek Redmond over at his CJ3B site.

But there wasn’t a WillysTech-like email list just for the trailers, so I started one:
The Bantam Trailer Yahoo Group.

For parts, many of the Bantam BT3-C parts are simply Jeep parts from the same era (1950’s).  Things like springs, shackles, hubs and bearings can be ordered from any supplier that deals in the early Jeeps.  I purchased parts from both:
Four Wheel Drive Hardware and Carl Walck.

Reproductions of the floor and end panels are available from: JeePanels Plus.

I bought both a flat tarp, and covered wagon style canvas (yet to be installed) from:
New Life Resource Management
Bakersfield, VT 05441B
(802) 827-6124

There some other vendors listed in the BantamTrailer Yahoo Group’s Vendor Database - but if you need some of the trailer specific parts like a-frames, landing legs, axles, or lunette rings it’s well worth joining the group,and putting a post out.

Illustrations above from the Bantam Trailer Spotter’s Guide.

Via the Bantam Trailer Yahoo! Group and Rus Curtis, here are some pictures of a Bantam BT3C with the original stake rack and bow setup.  The trailer is now owned by Gary Johnson:

The canvas is available, so far as I know, through 2 suppliers.  One is Beachwood Canvas, and the other is New Life Resource Management.  Beachwood’s price is $800, and I’ve been unable to determine if that includes the stake racks and bows, or is just for the canvas.  Beachwood isn’t known for being cheap, but that price seems awful high.  New Life sells just the canvas for $175 (as of 18 mos. ago), so I purchased it in Black.

Here’s the contact info for New Life:
New Life Resource Management
Bakersfield, VT 05441B
(802) 827-6124

The bows - harder for the do-it-yourselfer to make due to the bent-wood design, are available from:
Norm
DauererN@aol.com

Cost, if I recall correctly, was around $200 for 3 bows.

I’ve yet to make the stake racks and bows, but was given the following very detailed set of instructions from Gary Johnson of Chandler, AZ.:

---------------------------

BANTAM BTC-3 TOP BOWS, SIDE RACK & METAL TOP BRACKETS

DISCLAIMER

The following information is gathered from measurements taken from my totally original Bantam BTC-3 trailer, SN 19918. I feel my trailer was built in 1955, so obviously trailers built before or after mine could have slightly different measurements. Good Luck!!

NOTE!! ALL THE WOOD USED IN THIS ASSEMBLY IS OAK � ALL HARDWARE IS PLATED

SIDE BRACKETS

There are six (6) three-sided brackets that mount one (1) at the top of each of the three (3) vertical side posts. The brackets mount on the inside of the vertical posts towards the inside of the trailer. These brackets are made from flat 1/16” thick metal stock cut into a flat 3” X 5-1/8” rectangular piece. When completed, each side of the bracket should measure 3” x 1-1/2” and the face of the bracket will be 3” x 2” leaving the extra 1/8” consumed by the bends.

The holes for the bolts are drilled on the 1-1/2” side of the bracket with a 17/64th bit and the holes are 2” center to center. The holes should be centered �” from the short edge of the bracket and �” from the long edge of the bracket. Of course this would be repeated on each side of the bracket and after bending, the holes should line up.

After the holes are drilled in the flat stock, make a mark 1-1/2” from the short end of each end of the flat stock. Place the 1-1/2” flat stock in a vise and gently bend the stock until you are at 90 degrees. Repeat this step with the other end of the stock and the bracket is complete.

Each three-sided bracket will be mounted to the vertical posts with two (2) �” x 2-1/2” bolts having a 3/8” hex head. The bolts are secured with a square nut and a flat washer. The flat washers are �” on the outside with a 5/16” hole.

TOP BRACKETS

There are six (6) top bow brackets, one on each end of the three (3) steam bent top bows. Start with 3/16” thick by 1-7/16” wide metal strap stock. Cut each bracket 8-3/16” long. Using a 17/64th bit, drill two holes 1-5/8th center to center beginning �” from one end of the flat strap. Then, beginning at the opposite end of the strap where the holes are, measure 4-3/4” and mark the spot where the curve will begin. (the bolt holes will be in the curve) the curve of the strap should be a gentle bend. Using a square, bend the bracket until the overall length of the bracket is 7-1/8” and the depth of the bracket is 2-3/8”.

TOP BOWS

There are three (3) curved top bows made from �” x 1-5/8” oak strips cut to 52” long. They need to be steam-bent. While I know how to steam bend, I will not suggest you do this, as there are some dangers associated with attempting to do this at home. I believe there is someone already supplying wood kits for these trailers.

My curved bows have the following dimensions after bending: 47” outside tip to outside tip after bending. The inside dimension tip to tip is 45-3/4”. Putting a straight edge on the bottom of the bow with the curve up, I have 7” from the straight edge to the (top) of the bow, not the inside, which would be 6-1/4”. 12” in from the end of my bows, the top edge of the bow is 6-1/8” from the straight edge and at 5” from the end, the top of the bow is 4-1/2” from the straight edge.

The Top Brackets are mounted to the steam bent bow with center of the first hole being 2-1/2” from the straight edge. Caution: This is not 2-1/2” from the end of the wood it is from a straight edge placed across the bottom of the entire length of the bow. The holes in the wood would be 1-5/8” center to center on the inside of the bow and 1-7/8” center to center on the outside of the bow to accommodate for the curve.

The top bow brackets are secured to the top bow with �” x 1-1/4” stove bolts and square nuts with no washers. The slotted end of the stove bolt is pushed through the top of the oak bow and the square nut goes on the metal bracket side of the bow. Caution!! If the stove bolt screw slot is damaged, it may wear on your tarp. At the very least, you will want to draw the stove bolts as tight as possible and make sure there are no sharp edges to save wear and tear on your tarp.

SIDE RACK:

Left and right side racks are identical, interchangeable and can be used with or without out the top bows. The 6 (six) vertical posts are oak that is cut to 2” x 1-1/4” x 20-1/2”. The 4 (four) horizontal pieces are oak cut to 5/8” x 2-1/2” x 68”.

Using a 17/64 drill bit, you want to drill a hole through the center on the 2-1/2” side of the horizontal boards 1” from each end of the board and an additional hole in the center of each board repeating these steps for each of the horizontal boards.

Using a 17/64 drill bit, you want to drill a hole through the center on the 2” side of the vertical posts 1-1/4” from one end of the board. Then measure down 6” center to center and drill a second hole repeating these step in each of the vertical boards. Then, you need to drill using a 7/8” countersink bit, a countersink hole over the pre-drilled hole on one side only, on the top hole (nearest to the end). It needs to be deep enough to make certain that the square nut and washer are countersunk. The reason for this is that this is where the top bow bracket meets the side brackets.

The horizontal side boards are secured to the vertical posts with a �” x 2” carriage bolt through a side board and the top hole of the vertical post and a 2-1/2” carriage both through a side board and the bottom hole of the vertical post. Each of these bolts is secured with a �” OD washer with a 5/16” hole (Same as above). While Bantam used 2-1/2” carriage bolts in this step, you would have less chance for skinned body parts if you used 2-1/4” carriage bolts. I�m just giving you what Bantam used.

The rack is held in using chain tensioners connected to the tie downs:

It sits just high enough that the pedals on our adult bikes will clear the trailer sides.  The smaller kids bikes fit inside, but I might need to modify the rack arms as their bikes get bigger.

So I decided it was time for him to have a more “real” trailer to play with.  I made this up as a Christmas present for him.  The box is a plastic drawer from a medical supply cabinet.

The wheels are leftovers from an air compressor I recently bought.  The frame is 3/4” square tubing, the fenders are sheet metal, and the taillights are truck marking lights.

The boys and their toys…

Buying the Trailer
If you’ve read up on my 1966 CJ5 you know I’ve been around it since I was 9 years old.  Having a real Jeep around kids naturally led my folks to buying us a number of Jeep toys to play with.  You know, those cool sets that always came with a Jeep and matching trailer.  After growing up and becoming the owner of the ‘66 it wasn’t much of a stretch to recall those toy playsets and want a 1:1 version of a matching Jeep and trailer. 

So for years I’ve had my eye out for a “Jeep trailer”.  I never knew much about them until finding John Hubbards’ Jeep Trailer’s Spotters Guide posted on Derek Redmonds CJ3B site.  After much study of those pages I could at least put a name on what I was looking for - a name from the real roots of the Jeep - a Bantam Jeep trailer.

Knowing it’s name didn’t make one any easier to find here in the Rustbelt, though!

Then a mistake on some wheels I had ordered for the CJ led me to a machinist who mentioned having a trailer that “took Jeep wheels”.  My ears perked up, and I described the basic shape of the Bantam box and the rounded fenders.  “Yep - that’s what it looks like.” “Want to sell it?” “Ya know..we’re moving here in a bit and it’s just sitting full of junk anyway.  Yea, I’ll sell it.”

I didn’t even ask the price.  A few weeks went by before he had the time to get it cleaned out and brought in.  When I finally went to pick it up I went to write the check and asked “How much?” “75.00” was the answer.  I felt a little guilty, knowing these things sell for quite a bit more than that on the ‘net.

Little did I know the initial purchase price would be about the cheapest part of the project:

Not bad looking for $75.00, eh?  That’s what I thought…

A little worse for the wear, but not *too* bad...right?

Right?

Time to Disassemble
First let’s get this tub off of the frame..

So we can really see what we’re dealing with here...which is a very rusted and useless frame.

Might as well go whole-hog at this point and disassemble the entire thing.

Reassembly Starts
Hang it all!  For POR-15 application that is… the trailer will live outside, so all metal gets a coat of POR first.

Assembling the new frame.  The quotes I got to re-create the lighterweight sheet metal frame the Bantam originall had were pretty high, so a heaver frame was welded up from standard angle and c-channel.

Tub is now welded to the new frame.  Also in place at this point is a new reproduction floor from JeePanels Plus.  New “RV store” fenders get fitted at the same time as the originals were rusted past being salvageable.  The new fenders are actually very close in size and shape to the originals, and for $18/ea I just couldn’t beat them.

Bodywork
Back from the sandblaster and body shop.  My novice welding job is visible here.  A MIG welder runs so much better when there’s gas in the bottle… who’d a thunk?  New floor is visible.

For rear side supports I copied an early Bantam design and reinforced the edge of the bed with 1” angle and added the diagonal 1” square tubing supports.  Sturdier than the sheet metal type and better looking.

Many of the tarp hooks and fender mounts had to be re-brazed on since there was rust behind them. 

At this point we painted everything with the POR15 product, then took it back to the bodyshop for final paint.

Finished Product
The finished product in 1962 Ford Rangoon Red. Not bad!  Front shot shows spare tire mounted - a 4.5” Jeep wheel with a small metric sized VW radial.

With the CJ at the local state park on Lake Michigan.  I had several people come talk to me while I took the pictures...it’s amazing the attention draw these little trailers are.

The CJ and trailer were featured in the February 2002 “Readers’ Rigs” section of Four Wheeler Magazine, and the September 2002 “Jeep Shots” section of JP magazine.